Engineering the perfect wine – Hendry’s Winery

What happens when an engineer plows his money into his family farm in the Napa Valley he made from a joint effort manufacturing Cyclotrons  and then dragged that friend from work, yet another Engineer in to help run it?   A winery searching for perfection.   From the simple things of designing a concrete floor at the tan tops so they can work around them, to mapping out blocks and using CAD to design exactly what style vine to put in each spot, the engineers touch is everywhere.   With the number of wines with such a focus on perfection we had a tough time deciding exactly which of  the many great wines that we tasted we liked the best.

2008 Hendry Pinot Gris – $18.00/bottle-1000 cases

Hendry Blocks 1, 2, and 27 are located on Redwood Creek.  They are the coolest part of the Hendry vineyard because of the shadow cast by a high ridge immediately to the west.   Additional cooling comes from morning fog and afternoon breezes from San Pablo Bay.    Both blocks were planted in 1997.

Whole-cluster pressing was used and the juice was fermented in stainless steel at temperatures ranging from 56º to 59ºF. The fermentation required several weeks to complete.   When alcoholic fermentation was completed, the wine remained in stainless steel until bottling.

The color is a very pale yellow, reminiscent of sun dried haystacks in the fall used for mazes and little children running free.

The delicate nose give away little of the juicy mineral, pear, apricot and grapefruit.   The palate is of a lightly floral wine, tart, but dry and sweet.

The lingering finish is of mineral as there is no malolactic fermentation.  Refreshing acidity and a richness of texture, this wine is a fine match for oysters or shellfish such as Steamed clams with garlic and crusty bread or pasta.  Another fabulous pairing would be the Cioppino All’ Antonio, a seafood stew in a white garlic sauce at Caffe Sport in San Francisco (I see a review for a future article.).

2008 Hendry Napa Valley Albariño - $20.00/bottle- 435 cases

Hendry Block 9B is located on bench lands west of the town of Napa.   The vines grow on 2.53 acres of thin stony Boomer series soils between 190 and 225 feet above sea level. Morning fog and afternoon breezes from the San Pablo Bay moderate the climate. Block 9 was planted to Albariño (This varietal is grown almost exclusively in Galicia, Spain, where it makes an excellent accompaniment to the region’s freshly caught fish) in 2003.  Budbreak in 2008 was March 18, and bloom occurred on May 16.  Veraison occurred July 28 and harvest took place on August 30.

The color is a light straw color.  Floral elements with nectarine and bright citrus aromas are found in the nose.  The flavors are extra dry, yet on the smooth palate.

A bright tart granny smith apple acidity finishes the wine, making it a great partner for fish, shellfish, or Savory Asian foods, like Crab with Ginger, Green Onion and Black Bean Sauce.

2008 Hendry Napa Valley Unoaked Chardonnay – $19.00/bottle-1300 cases

This wine is a blend from our Block 9 (KD Selection), Block 19 (Dijon 96), Block 20 (Dijon 95), and Block 21 (Old Wente Selection). It was whole cluster crushed and fermented in stainless steel. It was not allowed to go through malolactic fermentation and remained in stainless steel until bottling.   Fruit freshness was further protected by a thin layer of inert gas to keep the wine from any oxygen contact, as well as a screw-cap closure upon bottling.  The forward citrus and apple flavors of this wine are accentuated by the absence of oak.

In 2008, it was the first year in decades that Hendry experienced a severe Spring frost, which effectively cut the Pinot Noir crop down by a third, and reduced our Chardonnay harvest to one-half the expected yield.  The concentration resulting from the early and drastic reduction in fruit resulted in a richly-flavored unoaked Chardonnay with depth and balance to spare.

The wine has initial aromas of pineapple, tangerine and even apricot, diving into Granny Smith apple and citrus on the palate, and a long, surprisingly lingering finish with intriguing mineral elements.  This should prove to be a versatile wine with fruits de mer, shellfish or any light fish such as sole or trout.  A crispy roast chicken with herbs and lemons would also be a nice match with the lemony notes and food-friendly, mouth-watering acidity.  The finish is long with cleansing acidity, yet light and delicate with light fish such as Chilean Sea Bass.

2005 Napa Valley Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – $25.00/bottle-2430 cases

This wine is a blend from our Block 9 (KD Selection), Block 19 (Dijon 96), Block 20 (Dijon 95), and Block 21 (Old Wente Selection). In 2005, median budbreak in the chardonnay blocks was March 10th, median bloom May 18th, and harvest was between August 31st and September 4th.

It was whole-cluster crushed, barrel fermented sur lie and aged in 50% new French oak barrels for approximately 11 months.  It was not allowed to go through malolactic fermentation, which is very important for retaining its food-friendly malic acidity.

Complex aromas of stone and tropical fruits, oak and spice.  Full mouth feel, despite the lack of malolactic. Creamy and nutty multidimensional palate, with mango and custard, biscuit and mineral. The finish is long, yet a cleansing acidity.  This is a young more fruity wine with tannins, so a rich food pairing such as a simple buttered and salted popcorn to a Chicken Cordon Bleu.

2008 Hendry Napa valley Rosé – $13.00/bottle- 650 cases

The 2008 Rosé is the result of a saignée of both Zinfandel and all of the grapes used in our Red Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, along with just a little bit of Primitivo.

The wine had a long, cool fermentation in small bins to preserve bright fruit flavors, followed by five months in stainless steel before bottling.  No oak, no malolactic fermentation, no residual sugar. Fermented dry, with light peachy and floral aromas, and strawberry, citrus and pink grapefruit on the palate.

As George puts it, this is a “screen-porch” wine, made for warm-weather drinking, well-chilled, with simple foods.   Parings should include grilled salmon, BBQ meats such as-ribs or even hamburger, pizza to pork tenderloin too!

2007 Hendry Napa Valley Pinot Noir – $33.00/bottle-1100 cases

This Pinot Noir of Blocks 4 and 5 and 25 are located along Redwood Creek, west of the town of Napa.  The elevation is between 200 and 220 feet above sea level. The soil is thin loam on a solid rock base.  The climate is moderated by morning fog, and the surrounding hills protect these blocks from the afternoon maritime breeze.  The St. George roots were grafted with the Dijon 115 clone, a Joseph Swan field selection and UCD Clone 12.  The vines were planted between 1993 and 1998, cordon trained and spur pruned. A six-foot, modified vertical trellis system supports the cordons and canopy.  Average production is approximately 2 tons per acre and harvest is usually between August 25 and September 1. In 2007, bud break in the Pinot Noir Blocks occurred on March 20.  Bloom was completed by the end of May, and veraison was complete by July 29. Harvest was August 30-31, with an average yield of 2 tons per acre. Aging was 11 months in 100% French oak barrels, approximately 50% of which were new. The 2007 Pinot Noir with its classic aromas of cherry, earth, leather and baking spice is truly one of the best Pinot Noir we have ever tasted. The color is a beautiful garnet and burnt brown.  Cocoa, ripe cherries and toast continue to emerge with further exposure to oxygen in the glass. The palate is firm, and palate-pleasing acidity. This wine would lend itself beautifully to richer fish, such as grilled or cedar-planked salmon, herbed squab or quail, or a wild mushroom risotto. Other pairings include a Hawaiian Kalua Pork or a Vegetarian casserole with hints of sesame oil and yellow curry.  One of our favorites that both Patrick and I agreed upon.

2007 Hendry Napa Valley Primitivo – $31.00/bottle-845 cases

Hendry Block 24 is located on bench lands west of the town of Napa. This 1.96 acre block is approximately 200 feet above sea level and has thin, stony Boomer series soils.  The maritime climate is moderated by morning fog and strong afternoon breezes from San Pablo Bay. The vines were planted in 1997 using St. George roots and grafted with U.C.D. Primitivo Clone 3.  The vines are spaced 6.9’ x 5’, cordon trained and spur pruned. A vertical trellis system supports the cordon and the canopy.  Average production is 3.5 tons per acre and the average harvest dates are between September 15 and September 20. In 2007, the median bud break in Block 24 occurred March 29. Median bloom was May 22 and median veraison was July 29.  Harvest was September 7 with a an average yield of 3.45 tons per acre. The alcoholic fermentation was completed in approximately ten days in closed stainless steel fermentation tanks.  After completing alcoholic fermentation, the wine was pressed and put into barrels for malolactic fermentation.  Aging was fifteen months in 100% French oak barrels, of which approximately one-third were new.   The color is a very rich and dark purple. Cocoa, coffee and cherry jam aromas extends throughout, before each sip. More jammy fruit on the palate and silky tannins make this wine seductive, yet complex and refined.  Pairing this wine with a roasted leg of lamb or Moroccan Style Lamb, a pizza with anchovies, or a Seafood Stew with a tomato base.

2005 Hendry Napa Valley Red Wine (Bordeaux Blend) – $35.00/bottle-950 cases

This wine is a blend of Five grapes– 30% Petit Verdot (Block 15), 26% Malbec (Block 14), 16% Cabernet Sauvignon (Block 8), 14% Cabernet Franc (Block 26) and 14% Merlot (Block 13).   The wine was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, approximately 56% of which were new barrels.

This beautiful blended wine should be decanted and rest for at least an hour.  The nose is represented with notes of black cherries, mint, cedar, leather, cocoa and violets, thus giving way to it’s complexity.  This wine has sophistication, restraint, and complexity.

French oak is detectable, adding structure and elements of toast and spice to the palate, which is still developing volume and fruit depth. Tannins are firm and mature, with no awkward transitions.

The 2004 was held in bottle an additional 7 months prior to release, to allow for optimum maturation.  This is a wine that can cellar for many years from its release. A very soft wine, yet has great food appeal.  A Flat Iron Prime Steak and sauteed mushrooms comes to mind.   Not a heavy steak, but a red meat that would rich enough for this uniquely bold wine.

2005 Hendry Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – $35.00/bottle-2305 cases

Hendry Blocks 8, 16, 17 and 18 are located on bench lands west of the town of Napa. The vines in Block 8 were planted in 1974 and are 35 years old. They are spaced 8’ x 10’, cordon trained and spur pruned.   The clone is U.C.D. 7, grafted to St. George roots.   A seven-foot vertical trellis system supports the cordon and the canopy.  Average production is approximately 2 tons per acre. Blocks 16, 17, and 18 were planted in 1996, 1996, and 1997.   They are also on St. George rootstock. At 12 and 13 years old, they have reached a significant level of depth and complexity.

In 2005, the median bud break in Block 8 was March 31. In Block 16 and 17, it was April 6, bloom, May 31 and veraison August 7. In the younger blocks, bud break occurred April 2-4, bloom May 30 and veraison approximately August 4.

The harvest was October 13-18 in Block 8, and October 3-7 in the younger blocks.  Yields averaged 2.54 tons per acre throughout the Cabernet blocks.

Each year, George strives for a Cabernet with elegance and balance, and one which reflects the character of the vineyard.  The color is an inky dark burgundy.  The nose of this young wine is of violets, licorice, red peppers, cigar box and cassis.  The firm tannins on the palate reveals a true 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Aged for 18 months in 100% new French oak barrels.  It’s drinkable now with potential to cellar for 10+ years.  Parings should include a garlic Prime Rib Roast, Grilled Tri-Tip (marinated dark for at least 2-3 days), or Blue Cheese Burgers.

2006 Hendry Blocks 7 & 22 Napa Valley Zinfandel – $30.00/bottle-2000 cases

Hendry Blocks 7 and 22 are located on bench lands west of the town of Napa. This nine-acre block is between 230 and 300 feet above sea level and has thin, stony Boomer series soils. Block 7 was planted in 1975 to Clone 2 Zinfandel. Block 22 was planted in 1995, also to clone 2.

The vines are spaced 8’ x 10’, cordon trained and spur pruned. Average production is 3 tons per acre and the average harvest dates are between September 22 and September 25.  Aging was fifteen months in 100% French oak barrels, approximately one third of which were new.

Long-time fans of Block 7 will recognize the familiar clone 2 chocolate-covered cherry and berry nose on this wine.

The bright mouthwatering fruit aromas are of chocolate, spice and floral notes. On the palate, the wine has lots of body, bright acidity and a comfortable amount of structure, with subtle tannins that are characteristic of Block 7.

Pairing this particular wine with a Seared Swordfish with a tomato salsa, a spicy Sausage ragu and marinara sauce, or Sweet Ray’s BBQ beef or pork ribs would excite anyone’s palate.

2006 Hendry Block 28 Napa Valley Zinfandel – $30.00/bottle-1530 cases

Hendry Block 28 is located on bench lands west of the town of Napa. This 4.17 acre block is 160 feet above sea level and has thin, stony Boomer Series soils.  The vines were planted in 1995 using St. George roots and grafted with bud wood selected from an old vine Zinfandel vineyard.  The vines are spaced 6.9′ x 5′, cordon trained and spur pruned.  A vertical trellis system supports the cordon and the canopy.

In 2006, the median bud break in Block 28 occurred April 17. Median bloom was June 4 and median veraison was August 12. Harvest was October 2, with a yield of 4.3 tons per acre.  The alcoholic fermentation was completed in approximately one week in closed fermentation tanks.  The wine was pressed and put into barrels for malolactic fermentation.  Aging was fifteen months in French oak barrels, 65% of which were new.   The color is a deep ruby red.  Aromas include smoky spice, bay, berry, earth, mint and mineral . The palate is of dark fruit flavors of blackberries, blueberries and black currant, in an elegant wrapping of spicy and well integrated oak.  This wine will continue to soften and gain complexity with age.  The natural concentration and firm structure of Block 28 fruit is the reason it receives 15% more new oak barrels than the Block 7 & 22 bottling. Block 28 pairs well with rich, braised, or meaty, stews and would be terrific with a slow-roasted lamb shank rubbed with Herbs-de-Provence,  braised short ribs or a game-based risotto.

We have to say thank you to Jeff for taking us and the nice family from Cincinnati around the winery. Also for showing us how important the winery was to you, your passion in creating this wine.  After all this we ended up loving the different Cabs, but decided that the Pinot Noir was our main winner.  Both of us were won over with its balance and complexity.  The wineries quirky taste made us curious about visiting them come next January or so.